Two Days in Copenhagen: Winter in the Danish Capital

I stare at the ceiling, not yet daring to look at the clock. I know it’s early. But how early is the question. The jet lag is always rough the first couple days in Europe. But I don’t let it stop me. With only two days in Copenhagen, I want to experience as much of the Danish capital as I can. 

Bleary-eyed, I look at my phone. Just before 4:30 a.m. I’ll take it. A solid six hours of sleep should be enough to get me through my first day in Copenhagen. I throw off the covers and head for the shower. The deluge of water is invigorating and slowly brings me to life. There’s much to love about my room at the Radisson Collection Royal Hotel Copenhagen, but the shower may top the list. 

Color is just beginning to touch the sky as the server seats me at Issei, the hotel’s restaurant. The Radisson offers an excellent—albeit pricey—breakfast buffet. I dig into a plate of smoked fish and cheese, Danish breakfast staples. It’s a good thing I’m traveling solo this weekend. Between the fish and an entire carafe of perfectly brewed coffee, I wouldn’t wish my breath on anyone. 

Everything Is Chilly in the State of Denmark

My strategy to beat jet lag is simple: walk until my feet fall off. I’ve not found anything that works better. If I return exhausted each night, I’ll sleep. So, packing as much as possible into the day is key.

I head out into Copenhagen’s quiet streets a little before 9:00 AM. The winter chill hits me, but I’m prepared. Well, except for a hat. I may need to pick one up. Let’s hope the sun makes the day at least a little warmer. 

The Tivoli Gardens are silent as I pass by. Although the famous amusement park is a Danish icon, it shutters its doors in the dead of winter. It’d be cool to see park while its deserted. But that’s not an option. Amusement parks aren’t my thing, but seeing one without the hordes of people might actually interest me, especially one as historic as Tivoli. 

A couple blocks further along I come to the Rådhus, Copenhagen’s city hall. Actually, that’s the name of every city hall in Denmark—the name means “council house.” I admire it from its adjoining square before pressing further into the old town.

My route sticks to the Strøget at first. This pedestrian street is at the heart of any walk through the Danish capital. Beginning at the Rådhus, it runs all the way to the Kongens Nytorv—the King’s New Square. It’s over 100 years old, but with a history as rich and lengthy as any in Europe, that easily qualifies as new. 

I depart from it about halfway, however, winding my way past a few other landmarks. It’s not even been an hour, and I’ve already fallen in love with its charming byways. Eventually I spy my first stop of the day: the Rundetaarn—round tower. A walk up its winding slope awakens a little warmth inside. The view from the top is exquisite. I linger until my extremities complain once more, then hurry back inside. 

Rosenborg Slot

I make my way a few blocks further, and a large garden square opens up before me. It’s the grounds of Rosenborg Slot. Slot translates as castle or palace in English. In Rosenborg’s case, rather than an impregnable fortress, it’s a bastion of Baroque art. The facade is lovely. But inside things are positively ornate. 

Even when it was constructed in the 1600s by Christian IV, Rosenborg Slot was much more a royal residence than a defensive position. Copenhagen was already well established by the 17th century. There simply wasn’t need for high walls and artillery. Castle is definitely the wrong translation in this case. Its moat is the only castle-like feature I can even distinguish.

I tour Rosenborg, soaking in the history present on every floor. The centerpieces, however, are the coronation thrones. That of the king is an incredible specimen, carved from narwhal tusks. I’ve never seen the like.

A Stop at the White House

It’s nearly two hours later by the time I end my visit. There’s so much to catch the eye. But my stomach rumbles, reminding me I haven’t given it anything since breakfast. I know just the thing. A short distance from Rosenborg Slot is a coffee shop I’d passed earlier.

Don’t let it’s white exterior fool you. Det Vide Hus—The White House—eschews that look of perfection. But it has a cozy and inviting ambiance. The shop offers small bites, coffee, and tea, and has a handful of seats inside on its two floors. 

The staff cheerfully engage me in conversation—not to mention excellent English. I’m reminded how spoiled I am as an American. Travel is so easy in much of the world. I only attempted to learn a couple Danish words ahead of the trip. I have yet to work up the gumption to use them. 

I warm myself with a cup of tea upstairs, doing my best to distract myself from the pair of overly affectionate lovers (is this normal for Denmark?) across the room. The staff member who delivers my lunch is unphased by the display. We chat briefly before he leaves me to dig into the most delectable avocado toast I’ve ever tasted. It’s presented so beautifully. Taking a bite seems almost criminal.

The pair of lovebirds depart as I savor my way through lunch. Warmth has returned to my limbs by the time I finish. Stomach satiated, I now head toward one of Copenhagen’s most iconic spots.

Nyhavn

If you’ve ever seen any photos of Copenhagen, I can nearly guarantee that you’ve seen a photo of Nyhavn—the New Harbor. The colorful houses might be the most photographed location in the Danish capital. Nyhavn is busy, busier than everywhere else I’ve been. For a Danish January, it seems plenty alive. I’m certainly glad I’m not here in summer.

Restaurants and shops line the sides of the harbor, while boats rest peacefully in the water below. I start snapping photos, not stopping for a full 30 minutes as I meander around both sides. Every new vantage point seems worthy of a shot. 

I consider taking a boat cruise, but think better of it. Even in the cold of winter, being out on the water seems a popular activity. But I dodge the nautical temptation. Instead, I hole up in a cafe for a while, enjoying a glass of wine alongside my views of the harbor. And a book.

The wind picks up slightly as I continue my walk along the canals. I see the new palace, a stark contrast to Rosenborg. It’ll have to wait until tomorrow. The sun is already dropping low, fully setting before 5 o’clock in the afternoon. A cozy restaurant near the hotel provides dinner, and I suddenly can hardly keep my eyes open. I stumble back to the hotel and am soon off into dreamland, feeling satisfied with my first day in Copenhagen.

Kastellet

As is all too typical in Europe, my morning starts early. I toss and turn at 3:30 AM, desperately trying to will myself back to sleep. I eventually give up, turning on the light to read and passing the time until the hotel gym opens. The gym proves to be fantastic, and I feel rejuvenated enough to face the day ahead. 

Rather than enjoy breakfast for the second time at the Radisson Collection Royal Hotel Copenhagen, I hop on the metro before there is even a hint of light in the sky. Stepping off at Marmorkirken, I grab breakfast at Emmery’s, an organic coffeehouse and bakery chain in Denmark.

Dawn arrives as I begin a walk though the Kastellet. It’s an excellent example of a star fort. The five-pointed design ensures that there is no angle where you can be easily attacked without coverage from another part of the fortress.

Kastellet dates from the 17th century. It’s well preserved and an interesting piece of history, albeit obsolete. It’s been turned into a nice walking area. The light wind brings a morning chill, but I have to imagine this would be a lovely place for a summer picnic.

I have a bit more time to kill, so I continue to wander to two other notable locations in this area north of Nyhavn. Frederikskirken is unfortunately closed at the time I pass by, but it’s still lovely to look at. I then walk through the Amalienborg Palace, which seems far less interesting than Rosenborg Slot. It’s from a different era. But maybe the interior is worth seeing. I simply don’t have time to include it this trip.

Church and Christiansborg

I make a point of attending church even away from home. Even with only two days in Copenhagen, I make sure to carve out time to attend service. There may be plenty of beautiful church buildings, but gathering with faithful Christians is more important than whatever the edifice may look like. I settle on Copenhagen Reformed Baptist Church, which ends up being an excellent choice. The congregation is small, but I am warmly welcomed.

A quick grocery store lunch it is before I just back on the metro. I’ll spend the remainder of my day at Christiansborg Slot. Soon, I’m back at the Gammel Strand, right across from the palace. Far newer than Rosenborg Slot, the palace as a completely different feel. But it is just as much worth a visit, if not even more so. Multiple palaces were present on the site, but the newest dates from the 1700s, with section even more modern.

Unlike Rosenborg Slot, it still has some governmental functions. But much of it is still open to the public. The interior is exquisite. My jaw drops when I enter some of the halls. If visiting Copenhagen, do not pass up touring Christiansborg Slot.

Besides the ornate halls and throne room, you can tour the courtyard, the royal stables, and the tower for panoramic views of Copenhagen. But the royal reception rooms are the centerpiece. It’s rare that I’ll rate the interior of a building far more interesting than the outside. But in the case of this Danish palace, it’s no contest.

Don’t Pass up the Smørrebrød!

One final item remains: enjoying Danish smørrebrød. The word simply means “butter bread” if translated directly from Danish. But it’s far more than just buttered bread. You may start with that, but a variety of toppings turns your plain rye bread into a delightful open-face sandwich.

Restaurant 1733—a place I’d eyed the previous day—was packed when I arrived. Rather than wait, I choose to face the January chill, enjoying my smørrebrød al fresco. The surprise in the waiter’s voice is noticeable. This likely isn’t a common choice. But the food is worth it.

Dining outside also provides lovely views of the canal. I soak in as much of Copenhagen as I can. The sun is sinking low, and my time in Denmark is drawing to a close.

Across the Øresund I Go

I retrieve my bags from the Radisson and head across the street to the train station. The remainder of my whirlwind winter trip will be spent in Malmö, Sweden. Given Copenhagen’s proximity to their Scandinavian neighbors, there are many direct trains. You can easily head straight to Sweden from the airport.

The sun sets as I enjoy the warmth of the train car after a brisk day out. As much walking as I did, I am glad for the rest. It’s always a delight to see a new European city, and I do my most to be out and about from sunup to sundown.

I’ll certainly be back, most likely during another season, although winter was perfectly enjoyable. Denmark has so much more to offer. Kronborg Castle and LEGOLAND® Billund top the list – one pick for me and the other for the kids. For now, I’m satisfied with what I was able to see in my two days in Copenhagen.