I wake early, fighting against the jet lag that always plagues my first days in Europe. But I still caught several decent hours, aided by the exhaustion of a long day out visiting Lucerne and Mount Rigi the previous day. A cup of espresso perks me up and makes me eager for the decadent Park Hyatt Zurich breakfast. As much as I want to linger in the restaurant, I have an early train to catch if I want to visit Rheinfall and Schaffhausen.
I walk the blocks to Zürich Hauptbahnhof, boarding my train just after 8:00 AM. My plan is to stop at the eastern side of the Rheinfall, before hopping on for another stop of two to continue to Schaffhausen. I’ll need to be back in Zurich by around 2:00 PM to have enough time to pack up and catch my desired train to Strasbourg. It’ll be tight, but I should be able to see everything I want to.
My planning is interrupted a couple stops from the Zurich main station. The empty train car suddenly swarms with schoolchildren who fill the space with their chatter. Two boys of roughly eleven sit opposite me. One eventually asks me a question, which betrays the fact that I don’t speak German. He is undeterred, and I soon find out he has a sufficient command of English that we can converse well enough. It’s an enjoyable interaction. By the time the class alights for whatever adventure they’re off to, I can’t help but feel a bit of envy. Growing up in Europe and learning multiple languages is something I would thoroughly appreciate.
Roaring Rheinfall
I step off the train at the Schloss Laufen am Rheinfall platform. It’s not much of a station, and I’m completely alone as I begin my walk to the Rheinfall. Apparently, this isn’t the most popular spot in the country.
There is an entry fee, which lets you visit both the falls walk and viewing platform plus the Castle Laufen perched above. While you can see some of the fall from the boat dock below the train platform, I thought it worth spending 5 Swiss francs to enter.
You might think that spending nearly $6 USD isn’t worth it. But given the cost of everything else in the country, it seems reasonable enough. And the view at the lower platform is more than worth it. The water thunders through a set of rocks, kicking up spray that adds an extra chill to the already cold winter morning. I’m not sure whose job it is to change the flag on the island in the middle of the Rhine, but it’s something I’d gladly volunteer to do.
I make my way up the hill where there is a second platform. Rheinfall isn’t tall. But its volume makes it impressive. It’s half the height and a quarter the volume of Niagara Falls, if that gives you a sense of scale.
Having spent ample time admiring the fall, I head inside Schloss Laufen to warm up. The thousand-year-old structure is unstaffed. I find some of it’s exhibits to be slightly odd. But it does offer some insight into history of the fall. Given that they make navigation above this point impossible, a Dutch businessmen once proposed blowing them up. It’s also quite a wonder that they were protected from hydropower development. Either of these would have resulted in a very different view of the fall I see today.
I step back outside, headed for the train platform at the stop across the river. It may be a tad warmer, and I have to shed my jacket after a brisk walk across the bridge spanning the Rhine. The train arrives shortly after I make it to the platform, and within minutes, I alight in Schaffhausen.
Schaffhausen, Switzerland
Over the years I’ve read about and seen photos of most of Switzerland’s top sights. Schaffhausen has never been among them. The city sits at the northernmost extent of Switzerland, less than a mile from a small German exclave, and less than four miles from Germany proper.
It may not crack the top twenty places to see in the country, but I find the old town to be lovely. The morning is quiet, and some shops are just opening for the day. I wander the streets, enjoying the town’s charm. I take time to enjoy St. Johann’s church before heading back through the town square.
A quick cup of coffee perks me up, and I head east from the old town to one of Schaffhausen’s main sights — the Munot. This 500-year-old fortress sits perched on the main hill in the middle of Schaffhausen.
Centuries ago, it’s unlikely that its slopes were graced with a vineyard as they are now. Now the entire setting makes for a postcard-worthy view of the town. I take it in before heading inside the fortress.
The interior of the Munot isn’t exactly appealing. It’s dark and dismal in the middle. But it likely served its purpose well. I do eventually break out of its dim central area and get a great view of the town and Rhine River cutting through it.
I exit out the opposite side of the fortress and continue down the hill. Lunch is needed, and I stop for a take-away sandwich at a shop along the boulevard before heading back through the old town once more. I wind down my final hour enjoying Schaffhausen’s streets before hopping on a train back to Zurich.
A Quick Walk Through Zurich Altstadt
With time ticking away, I only have a brief time to see a bit of Switzerland’s largest city before I depart. My first stop is an easy one: the Grossmünster. Famous for its Protestant church history, it was the birthplace of the Reformation under Huldrych Zwingli in Zurich. As a building, the cathedral is spectacular.
But looking at the cathedral from across the river is just the start. I walk through the ground floor, enjoying its stately interior, which is notably less ornate that its Roman Catholic counterparts.
Yet there is more to see. You can head up the stairs to the upper level, which houses a bible collection, before continuing up the tower for a view of the surrounding city. There is a 5 franc entry fee, which I’m more than happy to pay. It’s cash only. And stairs only. You have to hoof it to the top.
I pause at the mezzanine level, it’s old wooden chairs catching my eye. I’d be curious to know well attended services are these days. My guess is they are hardly used.
This is also where you can view the bible collection. Those on display are printed in a lovely old type set, some illuminated with beautiful drawings.
Now for the real climb. I continue up the tower, eager for what awaits. And I am not disappointed. From the top of the Grossmünster you have a panoramic view of Zurich is all directions. I’m utterly in love.
I linger for as long as can allow at the top of the Grossmünster. A short walk through the altstadt (old city) back to the Park Hyatt to collect my bag is all that remains. I have a train to catch.
But the walk is not without a few more cool moments. Passing through the Lindenhöf square, I pause by the handful of elderly men playing chess on a nearly life-size board. Definitely adds a fun aspect to the game.
I continue through the altstadt. The streets soon make me wish I would have allowed for more time in Zurich. But I had my mind made up for the day trip to Rheinfall and Schaffhausen. Plus, Zurich is more easily accessible, as it’s the major airport. Maybe I’ll plan in a long layover here in the future to give the city a full day.
Off to France
Fifteen minutes later I’m back at my hotel to collect my bags and leave for the train station. It’s been a short two days in Switzerland. I’m glad for what I’ve been able to see, but it has only whet my appetite to see more of the country. And there is so much more.
As I step onto the train platform, headed for Basel and then Strasbourg, I make my ind up to return at some point. It’ll need to be during summer, with at least a few days spent in the Interlaken area. Beyond that, I can’t decide between Zermatt or St. Moritz. Even Geneva has an appeal. For such a small country, there is simply too much to see.
