Although this trip is nearly a year behind me, I decided to wrap up a few draft posts detailing each day. This recounts my arrival in Switzerland plus first full day, which I spent seeing Lucerne and Mount Rigi.
As our Boeing 777 descends into Zurich Flughafen, I catch my first glimpse of the majestic Alps out the window. Having visited Europe several times, I’m glad to finally pay Switzerland a visit. Yes, the trip is criminally short. Two days in Switzerland isn’t enough to even scratch the surface of what this tiny country has to offer. But it’s what I have to work with.
Switzerland has been on my radar for years. There is so much to love about the country. From skiing snowy slopes to hiking through alpine meadows, it’s an outdoor wonderland. My list of pinned locations in Switzerland is longer than most countries. And I won’t even make it to many places I’d love to see on these two short days in Switzerland.
Arriving in Zurich
The plane touches down. I’m still glued to the window as we taxi to our gate. The transfer from the airport to the city is short, and I walk into the Park Hyatt Zurich just before 5:00 PM. I didn’t put anything on the agenda other than dinner, after a shower of course. There’s nothing like a long, relaxing shower after a long haul flight.
At the recommendation of a friend, I headed several blocks to a fondue restaurant. It is small, with a cozy atmosphere. A lively Spanish family is seated at the table across the room, the kids clearly enjoying their fondue. They wouldn’t warrant even a passing glance in the United States, but the table of Swiss German ladies next to me is less than thrilled with the youngsters. Their sideways glances and tut-tutting amuse me. The kids aren’t loud, but it’s still too much for the Swiss women.
But the ladies are friendly enough. As I stand up to depart, two of them struck up a conversation. The pair looked to be in their seventies, but both are vibrant, and clearly good friends. One had lived in California many years ago. We talk travel and family. I was surprised how open they were. By the end of the conversation, I am as being shown photos of her son who tragically passed away when he was young.
After a brisk walk back to the Park Hyatt Zurich, I wind down for the night in my decadent Junior suite. This hotel is certainly on the list of things I could never afford. But miles and points make the difference.
Guete Morge, Schweiz
I wake altogether too early. Even though the bed is beyond comfortable, the room becomes overly warm through the night. With the jet lag, it’s impossible to get back to sleep. But nearly seven solid hours of sleep are more than sufficient. I’m up at 4:30, enjoying a coffee and a shower. I crack open a book to kill the couple hours before the Parkhuus restaurant opens.
It’s more than worth the wait. An elegant buffet graces the tables, and the service is impeccable. I dig into a plate of assorted meats and cheeses alongside Eggs Benedict, following it with a handful of small pastries. Hopefully, I’ll burn this off hiking Mount Rigi later today. That, or I’ll be gaining a few pounds this trip.
I hurry to Zurich Central Station, having lingered too long over breakfast. Swiss trains wait for no one. Mine departs at 8:10 AM on the dot. It’s less than an hour ride, but a one-way ticket purchase day of departure costs me a whopping 25 Swiss francs. The conductors are kids barely old enough to shave.
After an initial tunnel, the train pops out into the sunlight halfway down the Zurichsee. Next stop, Zug. Then on to Lucerne where I plan to spend the morning.
Lucerne Altstadt
The air is crisp and the sun bright as I exit the Lucerne train station, mere steps from the oldest part of town. I love this aspect of European travel — trains are so wonderfully convenient. Crossing the bridge spanning the river Reuss, I enjoy my first views of the city. It’s a quiet morning, with barely a shop open yet. But I often prefer the streets this way.
Lucerne’s iconic Kapellbrücke (or “chapel bridge”) is my first stop. The timber construction spans the Reuss, and has done so for centuries.
Bathed in the morning sun, it makes for an enjoyable stroll. The art panels along the roof’s interior are an unexpected feature. While I can’t understand most of them, the variety is interesting in its own right.
I continue along the river until I spot the Museggmauer — the old city wall. Running from the banks of the Reuss to the other side of the oldest section of the city, it is an impressive fortification. In the 1400s, it would have served its function well. While climbing up a tower and walking along the stonework certainly piques my interest, I’ve a self-imposed schedule to keep.
Bidding the final tower of the Museggmauer goodbye, I meander a few more blocks to the church of St. Leodegar. While it is far more plain than many churches or cathedrals I’ve visited, I cannot get over its narrowing spires. They are as tall at the stone towers themselves.
My walk ends where it began, along the water of the Vierwaldstättersee. I make no attempt at the German name, more than content to call it “Lake Lucerne” for the time being. And my time wandering the city is already spent.
A Lovely Lake
It may be unwise to plan so much in a single day, especially with fewer daylight hours in the winter. But I find it difficult to be content unless I get the most from my limited time in any place. Thus, the plan to cross the lake and head up Mount Rigi. A ferry, a cog railway, and a hike all await.
I scrape my jaw off the counter at the cost quoted to me by the ticket agent. Again, I’m taken aback by how expensive this small country is. This day trip to Lucerne and Mount Rigi will likely go down as one of my most expensive sightseeing days. And not just on this trip, likely ever.
Soon, the cost of my experience is forgotten as the Diamant ferry boat glides along the calm surface of Lake Lucerne. I enjoy a sandwich while soaking in as much of the view as I can. It’s a lovely day, warming to over 15°C, more than a bit surprising for February. But even so, the light breeze is enough to send me inside to warm up my cold fingers after just 10 minutes of taking photos.
I disembark in Vitznau. The cog railway is a short walk from the ferry pier, and its departure is conveniently timed. Soon, I’m aboard and climbing slowly up toward the summit of Mount Rigi.
Rigi Kulm
The Rigi cog railway makes several stops along the way as it makes its way up and down the mountain. The early stops don’t seem like much, simply platform and a couple nearby houses. But eventually we make it to the Rigi Kaltbad-First stop. As the upper end of the aerial tram route from Weggis, it is home to a couple hotels and restaurants, in addition to a few dozen residences.
These hillside Swiss towns amaze me. In some cases, houses are only accessible by foot. Roads may be nearby, but the lack of vehicular access and parking is foreign to this American. But I find it refreshing. I would gladly trade our car-centric culture for this.
After about 20 minutes, we near the top. I spot the tower placed at the mountain’s summit. Our track is joined by another set, one that provides access to the towns on the other side of Mount Rigi, at the south end of the Zugersee.
I step off at Rigi Kulm, the final stop at the top of the mountain. The view does not disappoint. I’d through Mount Pilatus towering over Lucerne was a treat. Now stretching out before me are the snow-capped Alps. This. This is why I’ve long wanted to visit Switzerland.
Besides the killer view, the mountain summit is also home to the Rigi Kulm hotel and restaurant. Although there is a chill at the top of the mountain, the February sunshine is still appealing enough that many people are enjoying some al fresco dining. I’ll be back to grab a quick bite. But not before soaking in the view.
The circuit path at the top of Mount Rigi treats me to beautiful landscapes in all directions. At the northern extent of the Alps, you can look out over the Swiss lowlands to the north toward Zug and Zurich. In the other direction, the Alps stretch as far as the eye can see. And spanning the two, seeming caught in the middle, is Lucerne, with Mount Pilatus towering over it.
I take my time, doing my utmost to savor the experience. This is certainly the highlight of my day trip to Lucerne and Mount Rigi.
Walking Down to Weggis
Rather than take the cog railway back to Rigi Kaltbad, I decide to hike down the mountain. It quickly proves to be worth the trek. Besides being able to enjoy the view at my own leisure, it’s an easy walk. The path initially stays alongside the railway tracks before venturing away along the hillside for the last third of the journey.
The journey is about 2.5 miles, and I accomplish it in under an hour, even stopping many times to take photos.
Rather than take the inclined railway back down to Vitznau, I catch the aerial tram to Weggis. Unfortunately, I am one among many heading down the mountain, and we are all packed into the tram like sardines. But I’m committed at this point. Rather than enjoy the views, I’m crammed in the middle of the car, barely able to turn around.
I’m grateful when we reach Weggis, glad to be free of the cramped gondola car. The discomfort is instantly forgotten, as I’m treated to stunning views of Lake Lucerne in the afternoon sun.
I have over an hour to explore Weggis. I wander along the hillside, photographing a handful of lovely Swiss chalets. Hungry for dinner, I decide to have a quick dinner in Weggis. The poor schnitzel I’m served makes me regret the decision. I should have waited until back in Lucerne. But I scarf it down before running to the ferry terminal, barely catching the last return boat of the day. The sun has just set. Photos don’t do justice to the scene justice.
Lucerne and Mount Rigi: Winding Down
I linger in Lucerne only briefly, enjoying a few minutes wandering the town at dusk. But it’s been a long day out seeing Lucerne and Mount Rigi. I make my way back to the train station and head back to Zurich. My plan for the next day is to see Rheinfall, Europe’s largest waterfall by volume, plus nearby Schaffhausen, before heading out late for Strasbourg. My two days in Switzerland are already over halfway gone.
As Dee says, your pictures are bright and clear, really n ice to look at them.
Mostly from a phone camera. But I like to think I can do pretty well.
The pictures are beautiful..
Glad you like them!