I step off my train in Basel, Switzerland, casually walking the length of the platform. My two days in Switzerland are all but up. Soon, I’ll cross the border into France, bound for Strasbourg. Finding dinner is my current task. I venture a quick glance at the departures board to see how much time I have.
The next train departs at 17:51. Wait. That one is mine. Why is it first on the board? I frantically check of my phone, and my heart sinks into my stomach. My train from Zurich had arrived late into Basel. Somehow I hadn’t even noticed.
I see signs for the French TER trains, which are located at an entirely different platform. I move as quickly as I can with my backpack and suitcase, considering abandoning my last bit of decorum and breaking into a sprint. Based on my ticket’s departure time, it’s gonna be close. Really close.
My train still has its doors open when I arrive. I climb aboard and exhale a sigh of relief. Thankfully, it was held for a few minutes. The doors slide shut just over 30 seconds later. Hopefully that’s my only travel scare. Assuming the remainder of my evening goes smoothly, I’ll be in Strasbourg on schedule.
Arriving in the Alsace
The 80-minute ride to Strasbourg passes uneventfully, and soon I’m enjoying charcuterie dinner at the voco hotel. I pass out early, exhausted from my day spent exploring Schaffhausen and Zurich before making the trek to Strasbourg. I’m not surprised when I wake well before dawn, still fighting the jet lag a few days into my trip. I’m refreshed enough, however, and more than ready to tackle a full day in this city.
Historic Strasbourg, the old city proper, is located on an island bounded by the River Ill on both sides. The voco is located close to the train station, which means it’s a 15-20 minute walk into the city center. I head out as the city is still coming alive, eager to see the cathedral I’ve heard about.
The air is chilly, but not unduly so for February. I walk briskly, trying to stay warm. Crossing the river into the old city, I’m soon admiring the houses in Place Kleber. Two minutes later, I get my first full view of the Strasbourg Cathedral. And, boy, it is stunning.
Cathédrale Notre-Dame: The City’s Centerpiece
I’ve seen several wonderful cathedrals in Europe, ranging from the early Gothic masterpiece of St. Patrick’s in Dublin, to the modern wonder of La Sagrada Familia in Barcelona. If I had to make a list, the Strasbourg Cathedral would be near the top. It is a beauty.
My mind is made up quickly: the Cathédrale Notre-Dame of Strasbourg surpasses its sister in Paris, one I had the privilege of visiting just prior to the tragic fire. The Strasbourg Cathedral is immense. For more than two centuries, it was the world’s tallest building. Uniquely, only one spire was ever completed. I wander around the entire exterior, admiring every angle the cathedral has to offer.
Then it’s time to venture inside. But before doing so, I purchase admission to the horloge astronomique (astronomical clock). This is a once a day event that I do not want to miss. Passing into the cathedral’s interior, the grandeur of the nave stops me in my tracks. I am in awe of the building’s majesty. To think that this magnificent construction was completed over 600 years ago, all without our modern machine and motors. Can we even build like this now?
I lose track of time. Between admiring the stained glass flanking either side, to simply gazing up at the enormous height of the ceiling above me, being here is simply surreal. If you only have time for one sight to see in the city, the cathedral is it.
Finally satisfied with my visit, I head outside for a coffee and snack. I sit at a cafe and read about the history of both the city and its amazing cathedral. Although the cathedral is Roman Catholic, Strasbourg has a rich Protestant history. Martin Luther’s writings were published in Strasbourg in 1520, and the city was quickly influenced by the Protestant Reformation. John Calvin even served in the city for a time before returning to Geneva.
But now it’s time. I scarf down the rest of my pastry and return to the cathedral, eager to see the marvel of engineering that it houses.
The Strasbourg Astronomical Clock: A Must-See
Off to the side of one transept is the Strasbourg astronomical clock. The cathedral closes around midday to accommodate the clock tour. Given that the experience would attract plenty of onlookers, I’m glad this is how it is managed.
The clock is impressive at first glace. It is ornately decorated with inlays, painted sections, and carved statue pieces. But as the tour begins and the clock is explained, I realize that the real marvel is in its design.
The Strasbourg astronomical clock has an accuracy within eight seconds per year — utterly incredible for a mechanical clock. And it’s no simple clock. It’s numerous moving figures and parts all work in harmony. The procession of apostles that occurs at solar noon each day is the highlight. Beyond this, it houses a planetary calendar showing the exact position of the six visible planets in relation to the sun.
The clock has both the solar time (“temps apparent“) and the local time as we know it (“heure publique“).
Perhaps the most impressive piece of machinery is the mechanical computation of the annual ecclesiastical calendar. This piece of the clock activates once a year, at midnight on December 31, calculating the dates of the Christian calendar for the year. Given the complexity of this calculation, as it includes both the date and the lunar cycle, it is an impressively complicated mechanical device, and likely the first of its kind.
Jean-Baptiste Schwilgué, the clock’s designer, spent his life in the clock’s design. The current Strasbourg astronomical clock actually isn’t the first of it’s kind in the cathedral, and it took Schwilgué more than 30 years of study to recreate and build upon the design of the previous clock. Inaugurated in 1842, the clock has been running ever since, a testament to its designer’s skill.
My stomach rumbles as the tour concludes. The plan is to visit the Ouevre Notre Dame Museum next. But it has been far too many hours since I’ve eaten. Lunch is in order.
Lunch in a Cave
Just off la Place de la Cathedrale, down in a cave, I find the restaurant Le Gurtlerhoft. It was a snap decision from among the numerous restaurants a short distance from the cathedral, and it proves a fine choice.
I order L’Alscien three course menu. The starter is an onion pie, and a chicken in cream sauce with fresh house-made pasta soon follows. An apple tart finishes the experience off. I had forgotten how much I love French food. I linger over every bite, enjoying both the ambiance and a book.
My stomach satiated, I head over to the Ouevre Notre Dame Museum, located on the other side of the cathedral. It provides a wonderful history of the cathedral’s construction over centuries. I find it to be entirely worth the visit.
My hour allotted passes quickly, as I’m engrossed in the preserved statues. The number of cathedral pieces that have been preserved or restored is truly remarkable.
The renaissance art and woodwork demands additional time. But I simply don’t have it. I can’t miss my boat ride. Bidding the museum adieu, I walk the fifty yards to the nearby dock.
Excursion on the Ill
If there is one experience certain to part me with my money, it is a boat ride. Whether it is on a bay or river, I simply can’t pass them up. Given that the city of Strasbourg is on an island, a boat ride on the River Ill seems the perfect choice, even on a cloudy, chilly winter afternoon.
We pass through Petit France, Strasbourg’s most beautiful quarter with an ugly history. It’s half-timbered houses are the most charming in the entire city. I make a note to visit the next day.
Passing through a set of locks, we make a u-turn at the Vauban Bridge. The German-built towers opposite the bridge were once the edge of the city. The mix of German and French control through the centuries gives the Alsace an interesting history.
Heading back the way we’d come, we travel down the river all the way into the we’re Neustadt. This German-constructed section has is a marked difference in style, which the name gives away. We pass by another church as well. It’s not nearly as magnificent, but I’ll likely give it a visit tomorrow as well.
Eventually, we reach the European Parliament. I’d not even realized it is located in Strasbourg. Given the influence of the city and location on the continent, it doesn’t seem a bad choice. It’s also the last location on the tour. We make another u-turn and head back to the dock.
I make a quick pass through Petit France before returning yet again to the cathedral. Although it was my first stop, it’ll be my final one as well.
Topping It All Off
For the third time today, I enter the Cathédrale Notre-Dame, this time headed up a winding flight of stairs. Although I may love boat rides, I enjoy climbing cathedrals even more. I’ve been on top of both the Milan Duomo and climbed the tower of Notre-Dame in Paris with my older two kids. I could hardly wait to see the city from the height afforded by the Strasbourg Cathedral. The best part? I’d be visiting near sunset.
I slowly climb up the steps, taking in the views along the way. The square is nearly deserted, so different from just a few hours prior. The buttresses stand out. This feature of Gothic construction takes on a new dimension when you’re this up close and personal.
Finally, I reach the zenith. The view doesn’t disappoint. Looking out across Strasbourg, I imagine what the city may have looked like five hundred years ago when the cathedral was in its prime. You would have been able to see it from miles away.
I soak in the view until the sun begins to dip low on the horizon. Satisfied with my visit, I slowly descend, still contemplating the wonder of the structure.
Until the Morning
I make my way back to the voco Strasbourg, more than happy with what I’ve been able to see in this marvelous city. I’ve fallen in love already, and I have an entire second day here. Petit France beckons, as does another of the city’s museums. There will be more than enough to fill my time. But if there is one Strasbourg must-see, it is the Cathedral. No visit to this city is complete without seeing it!
One final note: make sure you get a Strasbourg City Card. It costs €5 and is good for seven days. The card provides discounts on a whole range of activities and is well worth the cost. These cards are available at the Office de Tourisme on the corner to the west of the cathedral.
