If you visit Kosovo, make sure you get out of Pristina. The capital city is certainly worth exploring for a day, not to mention its one euro macchiatos. But not hitting the Kosovo countryside would be a real tragedy. So, make sure you plan at least one Kosovo day trip.
While I saw a couple sights close to the capital, the best day of the trip was our trek out to Peja and the Rugova Mountains. Now, a couple years after the trip, I look back on it as one of my favorite travel days ever.
Visoki Dečani Monastery
We headed out from Pristina after breakfast, driving the 90 minutes from Pristina to the Visoki Dečani Monastery. It is located outside the town on Desan on the western side of the small country. The monastery dates from the 14th century and is listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. As we pulled up, I could see the medieval structure inside beyond the wall.
Since was constructed by a Serbian king, access to the monastery is restricted. While most of the country is Kosovar, there are plenty of Serbian pockets, including the monastery. But the Visoki Dečani Monastery is more than that. It’s a Serbian Orthodox Christian landmark and under the legal protection of Serbia. I’m thankful it remained intact through the conflict. Ethnic Albanians — who are generally Muslim — make up the majority of the population in Kosovo. And the clash between the two peoples is at the heart of the recent conflict.
We surrendered our passports to be reviewed as part of the entry requirement to the monastery. The check in process took far longer than I expected. But we did get to enter. My friend parked the van and we headed inside.
Even though it is over 600 years old, the Visoki Decani Monastery is still functioning. It’s not simply a preserved cultural site. The grounds are lovely and well-kept. The monastery chapel is the centerpiece, with cloisters and outbuildings surrounding it. The exterior wall forms a fully enclosed compound.
The chapel exterior is lovely — a fine example of early medieval architecture. You can enjoy the inside of the chapel as well, although it is in various states of degradation. There are still plenty of frescoes you can enjoy.
We walked the remainder of the grounds, enjoying the other open areas of the monastery. I have no idea how many monks live and work here, but it’s doubtful there are many. We saw only one during our visit.
The final stop was the monastery store. I had to buy a bottle of liqueur made by the monks, which we enjoyed as part of homemade cocktails that evening once we finally made it back to Pristina. But there was still a lot more left to our Kosovo day trip.
Lunch in Peja
Our stomachs were rumbling by the time we left the monastery. Lunch was the first agenda item after arrival in Peja, about a half hour drive to the north. We enjoyed a fairly typical Albanian lunch of qebapa and other grilled meat. Everything was delicious. Highly recommend.
A short walk through the middle of Peja helped our stomachs settle. Here in Peja we could find more remnants of the area’s Yugoslav past. In an attempt to unify multiple cultures into a single country, a unique style of architecture was rolled out. You can see a mix of styles from the main square. The multiple-storied building to the right in the photo below in one of the examples of this period in the country’s past. Let me know what you make of it.
Our time in Peja was brief, but I did prefer the feel of the city to much of Pristina. A flowing stream through the middle made the city seem a lot more pleasant. It’s also far smaller than the capital. And who could dislike the lovely mountain backdrop. Those mountains were exactly where we were headed next.
Through the Rugova Gorge
In mere minutes we entered the Rugova Gorge. It was an impressive, and often terrifying, drive. The city of Peja seemed a distant memory. Most of the drivers were fine, but there were a handful of moments that left me unnerved. Plus, the road has its…interesting…aspects.
It is only one of two routes you can use to enter Montenegro. Both require a grueling drive through the mountains. But you’ll certainly be treated to a beautiful landscape.
We made a couple pit stops. Bridge across the river? Of course one needs to give it a try. It didn’t really lead anywhere, given the narrow width of the canyon. But it was still a cool endeavor.
About 5km from Peja we veered off on a side road an began an ascent up out of the gorge. Soon, we were far up above the city, high on the hill. And I was feeling high on life.
Mountain Hospitality
Parking the car, we decided to enjoy a walk up in the mountains. The paved road had ended in dirt at the top of the ridge. We’d passed a few houses along the way, and there was a cluster of buildings a short distance from us.
While heading down the road to get a better view out over Kosovo, we walked by a young man and two kids busy boiling a giant pot of berries. We were intrigued. But the language barrier prevented a real conversation. I speak no Albanian. But soon their father arrived who had a far better command of English. He quickly invited us in.
Minutes later, we sat on their porch and enjoyed coffee while discussing both Kosovo and America. It was so spontaneous, so serendipitous. I’ve had few experiences like it while traveling. I was floored by their hospitality to complete strangers.
In addition to keeping sheep, the owners have installed a couple A-frame units on the property that they are renting as vacation units. The owner offered us a tour of one of the structures. While not your finest accommodations, it seemed a fantastic place to get away from everything. Especially considering you could roam much of the mountains. The place is called Villa Kroni i Bores.
We bid the family farewell and headed out into the mountains, along a lightly traveled dirt road. Passing cows and sheep, the views continued to get better and better. Soon, we’d be picking our own wild blueberries before rounding a corner and realizing that we must be staring across the border into Montenegro.
The mountains were the capstone on an already great day. I’d thoroughly enjoyed the monastery and Peja, but this was truly exquisite, the highlight to our Kosovo day trip. From the hospitality of the locals, to the stunning views, to picking and enjoying wild berries in the late afternoon sun, I’ve had few days that rival it in all my travels. This Kosovo day trip was something special.
Wrapping Up Our Kosovo Day Trip
With the sun sinking low in the sky, it was time to head back to Pristina. Night overtook us as we made the trek to the capital, and the kids were soon asleep in the car. We’d enjoy one of our last evening’s together before I bid my friends farewell and moved onward for my last couple days of the trip.
Although it was a brief few days, I’d thoroughly enjoyed Kosovo. A day trip out of the city is a must if you visit this small country. It’s off the beaten path, but I’d highly recommend paying a visit.
