The chilly February air jolts me awake as I step outside the Roomers Baden-Baden. I’m fresh out of the heated rooftop pool, and part of me wishes to return and relax the day away. But there are things to see, and I would be filled with regret if I didn’t hike any of Germany’s black forest.
And today isn’t even much of a hike. Stroll, would be a better word, aside from the necessary climb up the hill to the castle overlooking Baden-Baden. But one can certainly call it a hike. I did plenty of walking in Strasbourg the past couple days, but the only real hiking I’d done this trip was on a day trip in Switzerland. And even that wasn’t a lot.
So, I’ll call this a hike.
Baden-Baden Hiking: Up to the Altes Schloss
Soon, my pleasant thoughts of the pool are forgotten. I’m warm enough from the initial climb Several trails crisscross the forest, providing a few different route options up to the castle. I opt to avoid the road, glad for the leaf-littered switchbacks.
It’s a climb. If you’re doing this hike, budget more than 30 minutes to make it all the way up to the castle.
It’s ghostly outline comes into view, made all the more eerie by the leafless trees. Like so many European castles, it lies in a mostly-ruined-but-semi-repaired state. Given how many castles exist and the massive work required to restore them, I don’t blame them at all for starting and then abandoning the project.
Altes Schloss zu Hohenbaden
The varying restoration of European castles is interesting to me. I know that they span many centuries. But you’ll have some that are complete ruins and others that are well preserved. And there are some where there has clearly been a massive amount of effort expended to rebuild them.
The Altes Schloss zu Hohenbaden is an interesting mix. The castle has seen a partial rebuild of sections, clearly to accentuate the ruins. In others sections, I note the modern stone additions. The most prominent of these if the on-site restaurant. It is closed during my visit, but given the castle’s location high above the city, I see the appeal.
It starts snowing lightly as I wander the castle ruins. I trace my way back, forth, and around, trying to figure out how to access the castle’s tallest tower. My quest ends in failure. This section is closed, and my heart sinks when I realize I will not be able to enjoy wonderful views of Germany’s black forest from its parapet. I momentarily consider climbing up a section of the wall and natural stone. I bet I could do it. But discretion overcomes my desire for adventure.
Views of Baden-Baden
Views of the city and countryside greet me as I ascend the hill behind the castle. This. This is worth the climb.
Set above the castle is a rock outcrop that provides excellent views of Baden-Baden. Now I am not so sad that I could not summit the castle’s tower.
I soak in the view of the town in the valley below. I’m sure it’s many times better in the summer or autumn. But I’m thankful to be here at all. I marvel at how I am able to jet across the world and explore places like this. Here I am, in Baden-Baden, hiking to a castle. That’s truly remarkable.
A Walk Through Town
I descend the hill along a different path, one that takes me into the heart of Baden-Baden. I don’t have much time to see the town itself, but I want to enjoy what I can. The forests gives way to green pastures, which soon bring me to stone streets and rows of houses.
As one of Europe’s premier spa towns, Baden-Baden has long been a destination. It’s thermal baths have drawn visitors since the Roman era. Now it offers both luxury shopping and luxury stays, in addition to it’s famed spas.
I walk the central pedestrian streets, browsing the few shops that catch my eye. Unlike some other German towns, the historic center was not destroyed during World War II. Much of its architecture is thus truly historic.
I pause at the fountain in the middle of the altstadt. It’s about as far as I’ll make it today. Turning around, I make my way back through the streets of Baden-Baden. As brief a visit it is, I still find great enjoyment is getting to hike to the castle and stroll the town of Baden-Baden. Maybe I’ll be back. Maybe I won’t. Honestly, I probably won’t. My penchant for new places drives much of my travels.
Off to Stuttgart
My Baden-Baden hiking escapade over, I collect my bags at the Roomers and hop on the bus toward the train station. Two full days in Strasbourg and only one in Baden-Baden was the right call. I am not sorry for that choice. Now, it’s time to visit friends I’ve not seen in years.
I change trains in Karlsruhe. Arriving in Stuttgart, I change trains again for a local service to Böblingen. It’s not simple, given the station construction in Stuttgart. Navigating transit is an odd enjoyment of mine. It intimidates many. But I find it a thrill. G.K. Chesterton comes to mind: “An adventure is only an inconvenience rightly considered. An inconvenience is only an adventure wrongly considered.”
I muse on that as night begins to fall over Germany. Let’s hope for many more adventures.
